Leather Thickness and Uses Chart
Leather thickness is typically referred to in mm or ounces but might also be referred to in inches or irons.
All measurements are approximate. The biggest thing to remember is that leather thickness can and will naturally vary across the hide. Because of this, you’ll often see the thickness displayed as a range, e.g. 4-5 oz or 1.6 to 2.0 mm.
| ID | Ounces (oz) | Millimeters (mm) | Irons | Inches (") Decimal | Inches (") Fractional | Comparison (not to scale) | Uses |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1 | 0.40 | 0.75 | 0.02 | 1/64 | Book Covers, Bookmarks, Boots, Garments, Gussests, Linings, Masks (Decorative), Moldings, Pouches, Purses, Shoes, Wallets, Watchbands | |
| 3 | 2 | 0.80 | 1.50 | 0.03 | 1/32 | Book Covers, Bookmarks, Boots, Garments, Gussests, Linings, Masks (Decorative), Phone Cases, Pouches, Purses, Shoes, Upholstery (Seating), Wallets, Watchbands | |
| 4 | 3 | 1.20 | 2.25 | 0.05 | 3/64 | Boots, Chaps and Chinks, Embossing, Handbags, Journal Covers, Keychains, Molding, Phone Cases, Purses, Shoes, Upholstery (Seating), Wallets | |
| 5 | 4 | 1.60 | 3.00 | 0.06 | 1/16 | Aprons, Boots, Chaps and Chinks, Keychains, Knife Sheaths, Masks (Functional), Pouches, Purses, Shoes | |
| 6 | 5 | 2.00 | 3.75 | 0.08 | 5/64 | Aprons, Boots, Chaps and Chinks, Handbags, Keychains, Masks (Functional), Pouches, Purses, Shoes | |
| 7 | 6 | 2.40 | 4.50 | 0.09 | 3/32 | Aprons, Armor, Boots, Briefcases, Chaps and Chinks, Duffles, Handbags, Portfolio Cover, Pouches, Purses, Scabbards | |
| 8 | 7 | 2.80 | 5.25 | 0.11 | 7/64 | Armor, Belts, Boots, Carrying Cases, Chaps and Chinks, Handbags, Keychains, Knife Sheaths, Pet Collars, Portfolio Covers, Pouches, Purses, Scabbards, Shoes, Slings, Straps | |
| 9 | 8 | 3.20 | 6.00 | 0.13 | 1/8 | Armor, Belts, Carrying Cases, Chaps and Chinks (Heavy), Duffles, Handbags, Holsters, Keychains, Knife Sheaths, Pet Collars, Purses, Saddle Bags, Scabbards, Slings, Straps | |
| 10 | 9 | 3.60 | 6.75 | 0.14 | 9/64 | Armor, Belts, Bridles, Carrying Cases, Dog Collars, Duffles, Halters, Handbags, Holsters, Knife Sheaths, Pet Collars, Purses, Saddle Bags, Scabbards, Sheaths, Slings, Straps, Tool Pouches | |
| 11 | 10 | 4.00 | 7.50 | 0.16 | 5/32 | Armor, Belts, Carrying Cases, Cattle Halters, Duffles, Gun Belts, Handbags, Holsters, Horse Halters, Horse Leads, Keychains, Knife Sheaths, Pet Collars, Purses, Saddle Bags, Saddles, Slings, Stirrup Straps, Straps | |
| 12 | 11 | 4.40 | 8.25 | 0.17 | 11/64 | Armor, Belts, Carrying Cases, Duffles, Gun Belts, Handbags, Holsters, Keychains, Knife Sheaths, Pet Collars, Purses, Saddle Bags, Saddles, Slings, Straps | |
| 13 | 12 | 4.80 | 9.00 | 0.19 | 3/16 | Armor, Belts, Carrying Cases, Gun Belts, Handbags, Holsters, Keychains, Pet Collars, Purses, Saddles, Slings, Straps | |
| 14 | 13 | 5.20 | 9.75 | 0.20 | 13/64 | Armor, Belts, Gun Belts, Machine Belting, Saddles, Shoe Heels, Shoe Soles, Straps, Tack | |
| 15 | 14 | 5.60 | 10.50 | 0.22 | 7/32 | Armor, Harnesses, Machine Belting, Saddle Skirting, Saddles, Safety Belts, Shoe Heels, Shoe Soles, Stirrup Straps, Tack | |
| 16 | 15 | 6.00 | 11.25 | 0.23 | 16/64 | Armor, Belts, Harnesses (Safety and Work), Saddle Skirting, Shoe Heels, Shoe Soles, Straps | |
| 17 | 16 | 6.40 | 12.00 | 0.25 | 1/4 | Armor, Belts, Harnesses (Safety and Work), Saddle Skirting, Shoe Heels, Shoe Soles, Straps | |
| 18 | 17 | 6.80 | 12.75 | 0.27 | 17/64 | Armor, Belts, Harnesses (Safety and Work), Saddle Skirting, Shoe Heels, Shoe Soles, Straps | |
| 19 | 18 | 7.20 | 13.50 | 0.28 | 9/32 | Armor, Belts, Harnesses (Safety and Work), Saddle Skirting, Shoe Heels, Shoe Soles, Straps | |
| 20 | 19 | 7.60 | 14.25 | 0.30 | 19/64 | Armor, Belts, Harnesses (Safety and Work), Saddle Skirting, Shoe Heels, Shoe Soles, Straps | |
| 21 | 20 | 8.00 | 15.00 | 0.31 | 5/16 | Armor, Belts, Saddle Skirting, Shoe Heels, Shoe Soles, Straps |
Some places you’ll buy leather from might show the thickness in mm vs. oz, or vice versa. The info below might help in mentally converting between the two measurement types.
Between the numbers in the table and the visuals of the chart you can see that it’s a linear relationship of 0.40 mm of thickness per 1 “ounce rating” of leather. This is in contrast to the metal gauge to measurement‘s logarithmic relationship. This linear relationship allows for easy conversions.
mm to oz
If you see a hide listed as 5 oz but you prefer to know what it is in mm, multiply the oz value by 0.40 mm: 5 * 0.40 mm –> 2 mm.
If your project calls for 1 mm, you can calculate that you should look for a 2.5 oz hide since 1 mm is half of 2 mm, divide the oz value by two: 5 oz / 2 –> 2.5 oz.
oz to mm
If you see a hide listed as 2 mm but your prefer to know what it is in “ounce rating”, divide the mm value by 0.40: 2 mm / 0.40 –> 5 oz.
If your project calls for 2.5 oz, you can calculate that you should look for a 1 mm hide since 2.5 oz is half of 5 oz, divide the mm value by two: 2 mm / 2 –> 1 mm.
If you don’t care for mental gymnastics, you can also memorize to reduce the need. For example, I’ve committed to memory that
- 0.40 mm = 1 oz
- 1 mm = 2.5 oz
- 2 mm = 5 oz
- 4 mm = 10 oz
as those are the main thickness I use. You might have a better memory than do I and be able to hold on to the whole chart in your gray cells. If so, kudos and I’m not jealous a bit. (I am, though! My memory is a sieve.)
Leather usage depends on
- thickness,
- desired firmness of the end-product, and
- other factors. These will be addressed more in the future regarding body part (back, belly, shoulder, etc.), source (cow, sheep, kangaroo, etc.), tannage (veg tan, chrome tan, oil tan, etc.) , and designators (bridle, harness, etc.) choices.
Below are some generalized statements regarding suitability based on thickness.
- Thinner
- is good when you’re thinking “soft, supple, pliable”.
- easier to mold yet those folds are less durable. Good for a mask or other arty piece that will be displayed and not handled much.
- Thicker
- is good when you’re thinking “solid, durable, firm”.
- is good when you’re wanting self-supporting” (e.g. a briefcase you want to set down and have it remain upright).
- is harder to mold but the resultant shape will be more durable for day-to-day use. Good for holsters or bags.
- is easier to get more detail you can get from stamping, carving, or 3D work.
- is generally stronger. Note: Kangaroo leather is usually tougher than other leathers at the same thickness.
| Category | Area | Type | Name | Description | LearnMore |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Measurement | Thickness | Leather | Inches | Measuring leather in inches is a direct method. Inches are represented as fractional (e.g. 1/2″) or decimal (e.g. 0.5″). How thick is it in inches? There ya go! Easy peasy. Or is it? |
|
| Measurement | Thickness | Leather | Irons | Measuring leather in irons is an older standard and generally used in the shoemaking industry. It most likely came from using a standard thickness piece of iron, and measuring the thickness of the leather against that. All well and good, but the really does nothing for understanding of how thick a leather is until after you’ve worked with various weights for a while and get a sense for what an iron measure translates to in reality. |
|
| Measurement | Thickness | Leather | Millimeters | Measuring leather in mm a direct method. How thick is it in mm? There ya go! Easy peasy. |
|
| Measurement | Thickness | Leather | Ounces | Measuring leather in ounces, used mainly in the United States, came about from the garment industries practice of providing fabric measurements in weight, e.g. oz per square yard. Leather being heavier than most fabrics, they reduced the amount measured to a square foot. If 1 square foot of leather weighs 1 oz, then it’s called 1oz leather. If that same size piece measure 10oz, then it’s called 10oz leather. All well and good, but the really does nothing for understanding of how thick a leather is until after you’ve worked with various weights for a while and get a sense for what an ounce measure translates to in reality. |
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| Measurement | Thickness | Leather | Thickness | Leather thickness indicates the distance between the grain side (or “top”; usually exposed) and the flesh side (or “bottom”; usually hidden). |